I use Photoshop as little as I can, I will much prefer to get a photo perfect in camera which means that I am not spending time on every picture. The majority of my images have been taken around 30 minutes.
A picture shot at mid day, may well be affected by harsh and high sun light. To overcome this I placed my model in the shadows produced by the branches of a large palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector out in the direct sunlight highlighting soft warm light on the front of the model.
I got a light measurement from my models face and shot with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White-colored balance set up to daylight.
This image was shot on my small D2H with a 24mm to be able to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal length set with 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my own model to stress her arms and legs also therefore we had a great connection with regard to creating great energy and pointing.
Notice my lens/eye level is in the middle of her torso, this is very important when shooting wide angle and close to your own subject to steer clear of distortion, for example if you take to up high your models head will be big and the girl legs will look like they are brief like a hen and visa versa therefore its vital that you get your eye/camera lens stage at the correct just the height to avoid distortion,
I will frequently shoot from a lower angle, especially if I am attempting to emphasize the gap of a models legs with regard to hosiery photos.
To keep heaven as glowing blue as possible I shot with a polarizing filtration on my lens, looking towards the west of the actual midday sunlight. This is how you continue the sea and heaven blue along with making my personal models skin/tan look great an soft by eliminating some of the specular reflections on her behalf skin.
When I had been taking pictures facing a lot more to the east the sky and the sea would have been a lot more burned out there..
When I began shooting digital I were built with a lot of difficulties because I tried to shoot digital the same way that I shot film. Now whenever I am capturing, I will always below expose in the meter studying, this is done a couple of of reasons, in order to saturate color as well as to ensure I am not really loosing my personal high lamps. Obviously my personal images will be a little around the dark side yet I can easily appropriate for this by using a little s curve in Photoshop to start the particular retouching process.
I usually shoot raw files and a tiny jpg, exactly why I will explain within another Tiny Gem.
I process my raw file like shot in camera raw from Bridge and open all of them in adobe Photoshop. (Raw files possess a great deal more latitude re image info and will result in greater quality images).
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